really quick camber bolt question!, scroll down to post 8 Options

[mashedpaters]

i'm getting a big-ass front sway for auto-x this season. I found a 27-29mm whiteline piece used and I think I'm going to jump on it, I just need to make sure it will fit the wrx suspension. I'm pretty sure it will, it was on a 2006 STi if that matters.
Thanks guys

New Question:
can I install camber bolts up front to maximize camber without throwing off my alignment? or if I put them in and get another -1 or so degrees of camber will I need a new alignment?
Thanks

This post has been edited by mashedpaters: Mar 9 2010, 10:19 PM

[scoobydoo12]

I doubt it will bud. As far as I know the majority of sti suspension parts, unless it's from a 2004, don't fit wrx's.

[mashedpaters]

thats what I was thinking too but on fastwrx.com (some site), they had a little passage about suspension differences and they said the rear suspension was way different and not compatible but they said the fronts are pretty much the same and the sway on their site they don't specify any of the front sways...

[Torinalth]

the 27 front will work, but the issue is that you will probably need to get spherical endlinks as there is a slight difference in the STI swaybar for some reason. Personally I'd get a 24 and NOT a 27.... but thats me. do you have ANY sways? if not, then get 24 front, or the 24 set, and then some springs and shocks.

27 is regarded as massive overkill unless a track car... but that is just opinion, not fact. YMMV.

[mashedpaters]

I have a 22 rear sway and springs and I auto-x or drive like a complete p---y on the street. I still have some understeer, which I'm trying to get rid of with a huge bar, especially on turn in.

Reason for edit: Edited common word for vajayjay

[mashedpaters]

I found a thread on nasioc and front sways are all the same on 02-07 wrxs and 04-07 STi's so I'm good.
thanks

[Vader Wagon]

27-29mm? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

Wow, that's a lotta bar. Besides... why's the guys selling? Honestly, unless it's being given away, you might be better of waiting and getting a less macho bar.

[mashedpaters]

auto-x, I don't have stiff enough spring rates, or prolly enough camber and I got it for $130 shipped so it was a pretty good deal. My local subaru auto-x team (team blew) pretty much all suggested going giant front bar for auto-x and I'm not worried about DD because the car sees about 8000 miles a year, and probably less than half of that now that I'm up in school.

New Question:
can I install camber bolts up front to maximize camber without throwing off my alignment? or if I put them in and get another -1 or so degrees of camber will I need a new alignment?
Thanks

[Yellow Snow]

You can't really do what you're talking about. Camber bolts are semi-permanent. Some say you should replace them with every alignment, but I've found they last for 3 or 4 alignments before they start stretching or stripping or just seem too old.

The proper way to do what you're talking about is to get camber plates and an alignment for street, and then tell the alignment guy to mark where an extra negative degre of camber for the front would be on the camber plates, or something like that. You'll end up adding some toe out, I think, which might be good for autox. It might be toe in, can't remember for sure, but adjusting camber adjusts toe as well.

However, I run my ideal autoX neg. camber all year long and put tons of miles on my car and have zero issues with tire wear or anything else. I run -2.2 front and -1.8 rear. On a sedan, you might want to do more like -1.2 rear though.

[WRX Dave]

More negtive camber up front will give you extra toe out.

[mashedpaters]

so If I get camber bolts for the front, I'll either need to get realigned or I'll need to adjust toe?

[Yellow Snow]

If you get camber bolts, you will need an alignment after installing them. For the front, install them in the lower holes and have the tech max the neg. camber with them and then use the OEM camber bolts in the top holes to fine tune to your desired alignment specs. Maxing them in the lower holes will help prevent them from slipping. You might tell him to torque the lower bolts to 85 ft lb and the OEM ones to 120. These are the proper specs.

[WRX Dave]

If you're that determined to get the extra camber for cone killing, do it right and get camber plates. You're better off just running a good street setup than trying to re-adjust camber bolts every event and having one slip mid-corner.

[Torinalth]

agreed with Dave... as far as adjustment the best thing seems to be a nice set of plates (Whiteline MaxC would be my choice if I got them)

T

[Yellow Snow]

If you have cash to burn or want the bling, sure. But I've autocrossed for 4 years and offroad my car plenty and have never had a camber bolt slip. I can totally understand wanting camber plates, but camber bolts have worked great for me. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_twocents.gif)

And I say it's a misnomer that running ~-2 degrees of camber on the street will cause tire wear. That hasn't been my experience. I think people who have had the inside shoulder wear must be running really low profile tires and never turn or else they have toe out and just don't know it.

If I ran real R-compound tires (which I can't afford to do), I would invest in camber plates because R-compound tires require much more negative camber than you should run on the street.