Many of you have heard that I just recently purchased a full ScoobySport exhaust system from http://www.RallyPerformance.com I purchased the Stage 1+ package (Uppipe, Downpipe, and Muffler) and just did the install last Saturday with a friend.

Tools Needed:
1. 10-17 mm socket set (long and short sockets) and a 1/2" drive breaker bar (not necessary, but useful)
2. 3/8" and/or 1/2" socket wrenches (at least 2)
3. 10-17 mm box wrench set
4. (1) can Liquid Wrench or WD-40 - (Get a whole can, you use alot of this stuff to loosen rusty bolts)
5. O2 Oxygen Sensor Socket (Can be rented from your local AutoZone for $15. Money will be refunded upon returning socket set)
6. (2) Jack Stands (at least 2 1/4 ton)
7. (2) Rhino Ramps/Hydraulic Lift (or equivalent) ** Not necessary, but certainly makes life easier to have the car lifted up higher.
8. (1) 2 1/4 ton (or better) hydraulic jack
9. Large, medium, and small regular head screwdrivers
10. (1) short block of 2"x4" wood (4"-6" long at most -- Used for jacking engine up)


Parts Needed:
1. Uppipe
2. Downpipe
3. Muffler
4. Regular Subaru Gaskets (these are metal, of the "crush washer" type -- 3-ply I believe)
5. New Uppipe Bolts! - My install took over 4 hours longer just because I couldn't get these studded bolts out of my old uppipe and into my new uppipe. It is a pain to try to use the stock bolts, I would suggest that if your aftermarket uppipe doesn't come with them, go to http://www.subaruparts.com and order 5 of them.

This post has been edited by tubbytreats: Aug 20 2007, 11:02 AM

After ensuring you have all the items you need for installation, get a friend to help you out. This will make life so much easier for you, and trust me, you need 4 hands sometimes to get things moving!

Factory Exhaust Removal:

1. Back your car up onto your Rhino Ramps or other ramps.

2. Use the hydraulic jack to lift up the front of your car and rest it upon your jack stands. (1 notch high was fine for what we had to do) There are (2) crossmembers on either side of your car behind the front wheels that are suitable for jacking purposes.

3. Allow the exhaust to cool for a few minutes.

4. Remove the rear center pipe and rear muffler section as one piece (ie: don't unbolt them from each other) by removing the spring bolts between the rear catalytic converter and the midpipe section. It should hang on rubber hangers from the underside of your WRX safely.

5. Save the factory springs and bolts as you will re-use them when re-installing your exhaust.

6. Loosen the midpipe from the downpipe by undoing (2) bolts on either side. (Both are 14mm) One is a stud that is embedded into the midpipe cat section, and one is a loose bolt with 14 mm nuts on both ends.

7. Loosen the midpipe hanging bracket by removing the 14mm bolt that holds the midpipe in place. There is an O2 sensor in the midpipe, you can either choose to remove it, or leave it hanging on your car. (I actually left mine attached, but it would have been easier had I removed this piece now that I look back at it.)

8. Pull midpipe off of car and set aside for later use. (Unless you bought racing pipe replacement) YOU WON'T HAVE USE FOR THE MIDPIPE IF YOUR AFTERMARKET DOWNPIPE IS OF THE LONG VARIETY. (You will know the difference...)

This post has been edited by tubbytreats: Oct 15 2004, 11:33 AM

Intercooler Removal: (for those who haven't done this before)

1. Remove (2) 12mm bolts from either side of Intercooler (these bolts hold the intercooler to the metal brackets underneath)

2. 2 choices:

Option #1: Remove the (3) 12mm bolts on the front of the intercooler, remove the (2) 12mm bolts on your Blow Off Valve (BOV), and remove the (4) 12mm bolts behind the top section of the intercooler. You will also need the medium sized regular head screwdriver to loosen the metal clamp between the intercooler and the intake manifold. Then remove the lower Duct Air Assembly from your car, loosening the metal clamp holding it to the turbocharger.

Option #2: Remove the (3) rubber hoses connected to the piping that is bolted to the front of the intercooler, loosen the (2) metal clamps on the rubber hosing from Turbo and TO intake manifold. Lift intercooler and duct air assembly out together as one piece.

Remove the Turbo Heat Shields

1. Remove the upper turbo heat shield (there are 7 bolts, and you WILL need WD-40 or Liquid Wrench to get them off)

2. Remove the lower turbo heat shield (there are 3 bolts, same deal with the lubricant)

Another pic from the opposite side:

Removing Downpipe:

1. Unbolt the downpipe from the turbocharger (5 14mm bolts). These bolts WILL need WD-40 as well.

2. Remove the downpipe to transmission bracket bolt (14mm I believe)

3. Remove the bolt that holds the downpipe to the hanger bracket. Retain this bolt, as some aftermarket downpipes use this bolt. (ScoobySport doesn't use it)

4. Upon loosening this bolt, the downpipe will fall freely, you will want your friend to go underneath the car to help you pull this out safely.

Picture of the Downpipe and Midpipe attached to each other. (from TurboXS website)

Uppipe Removal: (Ignore if you are only doing Downpipe and Muffler sections)

1. Remove front plastic splash guard at the bottom of the engine bay by removing the 3, 12mm bolts and 3 plastic fasteners.

2. Remove factory oxygen sensor located in the passenger side exhaust manifold. To get to this, you will need to turn the wheel of your car fully to the right so that you can sneak behind the passenger side wheel (in front of it) and reach the exhaust manifold O2 sensor.

3. Use of an 02 sensor wrench is highly recommend as to prevent damage to 02 sensor. The 02 sensor can be accessed through a port located in the front passenger wheel well by removing the plastic fasteners and plastic cover.

4. Remove the factory heat shield on the passenger side exhaust manifold secured by (4) 12mm bolts.

5. Unbolt the factory uppipe from the exhaust manifold by removing the (2) 14mm bolts. Save the gasket if you didn't go buy SubyDude gasket set!

6. Unbolt the factory exhaust manifold from the (2) header pipes. (ONLY DO IF YOU HAVE THE SUBYDUDE GASKET SET OR KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING!) This will allow you to get at the uppipe better and with more room to work.

Another angle:

Remove the Factory Uppipe:

1. Find the EGT sensor socket bung on the side of the stock uppipe. Follow the wire that leaves the uppipe to the passenger side of your car. Disconnect the plug socket for your EGT sensor.

2. Loosen the (5) 14mm bolts Uppipe nuts that are attached to the turbocharger. (Deep socket 14mm required here most likely)

3. The uppipe should now be free to be moved around. IF you can get the uppipe out, do it, but I had to take the following step to get my uppipe out.

4. Optional Step: Jack up the engine - To do this, you will need to loosen the PASSENGER side engine mount bolt. (I believe it is a 14 mm, but could be 17mm or so). After loosening this bolt, you will need your hydraulic jack once again. Put the 2x4" piece of wood on your jack and jack up your motor on the oil pan. (Am I crazy you are asking??) Yes.

5. Uppipe should fall out the bottom of your car.


Plastic Under Tray you need to remove before all of this:

Uppipe, Downpipe, Muffler comparison:

Here are the differences in the stock and aftermarket parts:

Downpipe Comparison #2:

Downpipe Comparison #3:

All of my ScoobySport Parts: